Table of Contents

- Introduction

- Part I Ship Bounty, Mutiny, Pitcairn's Island, Landing, Massacre, Distillation, history from 1788 to 1808.

- Part II The first ships—Wreck of the Penelope

- Part III Buffett's account of himself continued; wrecked on the coast of Massachusetts, New England—shipped as mate in American ship bound from London to Canton, (1821)—ship sold in Manila—visits Oahu and California—remains upon Pitcairn's Island as a school Teacher—moral and religious condition of the inhabitants—John Adams' death.

- Part IV Capt. Beechey's visit—Jane Quintal's departure—John Adams' death—Capt. Bunker's arrival and fate—Mr.. Nobbs becomes school teacher—The Pitcairners remove to Tahiti—Buffett and family visit Gambier's Island—Return to Pitcairn's—Condition of the Island on the return of its inhabitants.

- Part V The arrival of Mr. Hill, (sometimes called "Lord Hill") attempts to govern the Pitcairners—pretended to act under the authority of the English Government—styles himself President—officiates as religious teacher—secret consultations—enacts laws—addresses a letter to Mr. Buffett—visit of the Tuscan—visit to Tahiti and Gambier's Island, &c.—Hill removed.

- Part VI Visit of H.B.M. Ship, Fly, Feb., (1838)—choice of Chief Magistrate—influenza 1841; death of E. Quintal and Isabella Christian—description of the island, village, house-building, productions &c.

[This article, written by John Buffett, the man who volunteered to stay on Pitcairn as a teacher, was written on a visit to Hawaii in 1845 and published in six parts in the Friend starting in December, 1845.]

A NARRATIVE,

of

20 YEARS' RESIDENCE

ON

PITCAIRN'S ISLAND

BY JOHN BUFFETT

INTRODUCTION

The interest taken by the reader of the following narrative, will be enhanced by the fact that its author has resided more than a score of years upon this far famed Island of the South Seas; this circumstance, we trust, will be an ample apology for adding another to the many accounts already published respecting the Pitcairnians. Mr. Buffett was induced to write this account, principally from the following circumstance. The Editor of the Friend, some months since, received a new publication from the United States, entitled, "Alleck, or the Last of the Mutineers." It is an interesting historical sketch of Pitcairn's Island and its inhabitants. The volume was forwarded by the author and accompanied by the request, to procure and forward any information we might obtain respecting the people now residing upon the Island.

On the reception of the letter containing the foregoing request, we applied to Mr. Buffett, then residing in Honolulu, and with whom we had held long and repeated conversations respecting his island home. We might here state that his object in visiting the Sandwich Islands, was to procure a passage direct to England, inasmuch as he was extremely desirous to visit once more the shores of his native land. After remaining here a few months, sufficiently long to procure the respect and esteem of all with whom he became acquainted, not being able to meet with a favorable opportunity to embark for England, he decided to return to his family and home and probably never more to leave them. Before embarking in the Am. whale ship Hannibal, he placed the following narrative in our hands, to be disposed of as we might think best. Thinking its perusal might not be uninteresting to many of our readers, and that our American correspondent would be as much gratified i reading it published in the columns of the Friend, as when in a manuscript form, we therefore commence its publication. It may be expected to appear in about six successive numbers.

Honolulu, Dec. 1845.

Part I

Ship Bounty, Mutiny, Pitcairn's Island, Landing, Massacre, Distillation, history from 1788 to 1808.

The ship Bounty, having been fitted out with the intention of transporting the Bread Fruit tree to the West India Islands, sailed from England on the 23d of December, 1787, and after a long passage arrived at Tahiti in October 1788, via Cape of Good Hope. Having taken on board the plants &c. the ship weighed anchor and sailed for their destined port. Through the ill treatment manifested by Capt. Bligh towards his officers, particularly to Christian, the latter meditated self destruction, and for that purpose had provided himself with a deep sea lead with the intention of drowning himself. But having made known his intention to another officer, he persuaded him to try the crew, saying, "you know the crew are not well affected towards the captain." Christian took the hint, and having secured the key of the arm-chest, revealed his object to the crew, a number consented and mutinied. Such is the account I received from Adams, and he informed me that he was sleeping in his hammock, but as soon as he heard the proposal he exclaimed "Hurrah for Otaheite," so that the mutiny was not premeditated but the work of a moment. The captain and a part of the crew were then put into the boat, and after an almost miraculous voyage arrived at Timor.

Christian with the remainder of the crew returned to Tahiti, and having taken some females on board, sailed for Tabaina, where they purchased a piece of land from the natives for some red feathers and commenced building a fort. Before it was completed a dispute arose between them and the natives, in which several of the natives were slain. Finding they could not remain in peace they again returned to Tahiti, where some of the females went on shore. Christian, mate, Young, midshipman, Brown, gardener, Mills, gunner's mate, and five seamen, viz.: John Adams, Matthew Quintal, William M'Coy, John Williams, and Isaac Martin, took them Tahitian females, and each one a native male servant, and the servants were allowed to take four or five women, and having procured hogs, yams, and seeds, they sailed for, and in a few weeks arrived at Pitcairn's Island.

This Island is situated in Lat. 25° 48, and 130° 12, west of Greenwich. It was discovered by Cap. Carteret, and named Pitcairn's from first being seen by a midshipman of that name. The island is about 1200 feet above the level of the sea, and is about 4 or 4½ miles in circumference, and in clear weather may be seen at the distance of fifty miles.

The Bounty having arrived off the Island, Christian and a boat's crew landed on the west side, and finding it uninhabited, and having a good soil they concluded to make it their home. Christian returned on board, and brought the ship to the north side where they came to an anchor, and got "stern fasts" on shore. Having moored her they commenced landing provisions, and other useful articles; but before they had finished unloading, Quintal went into the store room and set the ship on fire.— The other mutineers were very angry with him for so doing. When asked why he did so, he replied, "I am afraid we shall be discovered." Seated on the shore they watched the progress of the devouring element with tearful eyes.

They soon erected tents with the sails &c. living chiefly on the ship's provisions, with sea birds and fish which were very abundant. The place of encampment was near the landing place, and was called by them "Ship Landing," now called "Bounty Bay." Shortly after landing, the wife of Williams died, and was buried at the "landing place."

The island was so thickly wooded they could not proceed far into the interior.— One day when exploring the island to find if it produced any thing eatable, they found some water, and two of the woman in one of their rambles, found some bread fruits which they cooked, and continued to do so for some time before they made it known to the rest. They soon found that the island had been inhabited. Idols made of red lava, stone hatchets, fish bones, foundations of houses, and on the top of the mountain burying places were found.— Cocoa nuts were growing, likewise some bananas, yams, sugar cane, &c. An abundance of rats were discovered. They destroyed their remaining boat, that none of the party might escape from the island, or be the means of making known their retreat, should a vessel approach in the vicinity.— They soon left their encampment, and erected huts which they thatched with the leaf of the Ti plant, the root of which by baking, and the juice expressed, affords a kind of molasses. Having brought with them some yams of a superior quality, they cleared land for cultivation. They had also brought fowls and hogs with them.

They erected a hut on the top of one of the mountains as a look-out house, which was occupied by a man and his wife, (who were relieved weekly,) that they might not be taken by surprise, but have sufficient time to secrete themselves if a vessel hove in sight. The mountain on which this hut was erected is still called "Look-out ridge."

As an account of the massacre has been published by Capt. Beechey, in his narrative of a voyage of discovery, and as my intention is to relate principally a continuation of events, I shall not be minute in my account of the massacre. I have before given the names of those who landed on the island, and mentioned the death of Williams' wife. After her death he wished to have one of the Tahitian's wives, at first the others were not agreeable, but proposed he should wait and have the daughter of M'Coy's wife when she should be of age, she being but an infant when they left Tahiti. To this he would not consent, and of course the Tahitians would not willingly give up one of their own wives. To prevent quarrels among the whites it was at last agreed to destroy the husband of the woman called Nancy. He suspecting it secreted himself on the west side of the island. Having found his hiding place they send him food by his wife in which they had put poison, but he would not eat of it unless his wife would also, She of course would not. She next went with a Tahitian who was armed with a pistol but it missed fire. A scuffle ensued, and the husband of Nancy fell. She took a stick to beat him with. on seeing which he said, "I shall contend no longer since you are against me." He was killed and Nancy became the wife of Williams. The name of the native was Tallalo, and the place where he was killed is called Tallalo's ridge.

It has been said by some, that after the mutiny Christian became sullen, and that he was not respected by his fellow mutineers, this was not the case. After landing on Pitcairn's Island, he devoted most of his time to cultivating the ground; was never idle, and generally respected, and always called "Mr. Christian." John Adams informed me that on one occasion he found the consequence of not showing him respect! The case was this; having allowed the hogs to run at large, it became necessary to fence in the cultivated land, and each man had his portion to keep in repair. Adams' part being out of order he was called upon to put it into repair which he refused to do. Christian told Adams that if he caught his hogs coming through the fence he would shoot them.— Adams replied, "Then I will shoot you." He had no sooner made this reply than they seized and bound him, and sentenced him to be set adrift on a plank in the ocean, which sentence would have been put into execution had it not been for Christian.— Quintal and M'Coy were very cruel to their servants, Quintal in particular.— Sometimes after coming home lat at evening with sea fowl, he would make his servant clean and cook them, and if not done to please him he would severely flog him, sometimes putting brine on his back! The Tahitian men being so oppressed, meditated revenge. Having the use of the master's fire arms for the purpose of shooting hogs, they would go into the woods and practice shooting at a mark, by which means they became tolerable good marksmen.

They soon commenced the work of death. Christian was the first to fall a victim to their revenge. He was killed while at work in his Kalo plantation; Mills was next shot coming to Brown's house. They asked him if he would like to see how they shot hogs, he replied yes. They then snapped the musket at him twice, and at length killed him. They fired at M'Coy when he was in his house but missed him, knocking one of them down while he made his escape. One of the women seeing the massacre informed Adams, he went to procure some yams, intending to secrete himself, but the natives found him and shot at him, the ball entered his shoulder and came out at his neck. He fell, but recovering himself got up and ran; they caught him, and aimed a blow at his head with the butt-end of the musket which he warded off with his hand, having his finger broken by the blow. He then ran down to the rocks, thinking to cast himself into the sea; but the natives called out to him that if he would return he should not be hurt—he returned and they troubled him no more. Adams has told me that he believed Young was aware of the massacre, as the Tahitians, told him when he came back, that they had forgot that Young told them not to hurt Adams. Young was at this time sick with the Asthma. M'Coy and Quintal had hid themselves in the woods. The Tahitians soon became jealous of each other, and began fighting among themselves until but two remained. Those found the retreat of Quintal and M'Coy, and persuaded them to come back to the village; but they would not until they had seen the arm of one of their greatest enemies, which the two Tahitians cut off and carried to them in the woods.

There were now left Young, Adams, M'Coy, and Quintal, two Tahitian men, and I believe seven women. The whites determined to destroy the Tahitian men, and while one of them was sleeping with his favorite woman, another female, the only one now living which came in the Bounty, at a preconcerted signal being given, struck him with an axe and killed him. Young at the same moment shot the other. Quintal who was a desperate character, frequently threatened to kill the remaining whites and their children, and they considered it best for their own safety to destroy him. At this time they used to distil a spirituous liquor from the ti root, and meet at each other's houses to drink together. At one of these meetings Quintal became intoxicated and was killed with an axe. Young did not long survive, but died of consumption or asthma. M'Coy who drank much of the ti rum became deranged, tied a stone to his neck, threw himself into the sea and was drowned.

At this time, there were about 19 children, descendants of the mutineers, two or three of whom recollected some of the circumstances of the massacre; and several now living recollect Young, and some, or one of them at least, saw M'Coy tying the stone round his neck, but most of them were quite young at the time. They continued to distil for some time, and Adams informed me that once being intoxicated, he dreamed of seeing a person coming to thrust him through with a dart, and he being much frightened exclaimed, "Ah, I know who you are, Michael the archangel." The dream made a strong impression on his mind, and he vowed that he would drink no more. As the children grew up, Adams taught some of them to read, and a form of prayer, and they again taught it to the others.

Part II

The first ships—Wreck of the Penelope

Before they were discovered by Captain Folger, two ships had been seen from the Island, one of which landed a boat on the west side, and took off some cocoanuts, but before any of the natives could have any communication with them, the vessel sailed. (At this time Adams was the only survivor of the Bounty's crew.)

In September of the year 1808, Captain Mayhew Folger, in the ship Topaz, of Boston, on a sealing voyage, touched at Pitcairn's Island, and seeing some smooth rocks on which he thought it likely there might be seal, lowered his boat, and on nearing the shore was surprised to see smoke, as he thought it uninhabited, but he was the more surprised to see a canoe, the natives in which hailed him in English, and asked him whence he came, &c. They informed him of Adams and the Bounty, and wished him to land, which he declined. One of the men offered to go on shore if the Capt. would come near the rocks with the boat, so that he might be able to swim off to it, if he was attacked. The Capt. wrote a message on a board with chalk, but it got defaced in swimming with it on shore. The man went on shore and had some conversation with Adams. Having on a long beard, Adams asked him why he did not shave, and without waiting for a reply, sent one of the young natives to get his razors, &c.; which being brought, the man underwent the operation with fear and trembling. Adams asked him why he was so frightened; he being alarmed answered, "because I am an Englishman and fear I shall be impressed." He then went quickly to the boat. The Capt. then came on shore, and remained the greater part of the day. After giving Adams an account of the many naval battles, he gave a cheer, shouting "Old England forever."

In the year 1814, H.M.'s ships Briton and Tagus, on their passage from the Marquesas to Valparaiso, fell in with Pitcairn's Island in the night, and "hove to" till daylight.

In the morning canoes were seen coming from the shore, and Sir T. Staines was much surprised to hear the natives hail him in English, saying "won't you give us a rope?"

After coming on board he soon discovered they were the descendants of the mutineers of the Bounty. As Sir Thomas did not like to have his decks lumbered with canoes, he ordered some of them to remain along side or astern or the ship, to take care of them. The natives all wishing to remain on board, they proposed drawing lots; the lot fell to Arthur Quintal; he refused to go, saying it was not fair, because he had drawn the shortest! If he had drawn the long one he said he ought to go; that was the way he said they drew lots on shore. This caused much laughter, but Arthur had to take care of the canoes, much against his will.

Thursday October Christian, the first born on the island, and John Young*, being on board, were invited below to take some food, and the officers were surprised to hear them ask a blessing before taking their food. They informed the officers that John Adams had taught them a form of prayer and also to read.

* [There was no John Young on the island at the time. There were four Youngs (males) on the island, Edward, 17, George, 17, Robert, 16, and William, 15. Apart from John Adams, the only others named John at the time were Joseph John Christian, 9, and John Quintal, 2.]

The Captains came on shore, but Adams knowing the ships to be men of war, secreted himself not far from the landing place, while his daughter went to see if the boats were armed; finding they were not, she returned and informed her father, who came out and received the Captains.

After remaining on shore some hours, they asked Adams if he would not like to return to England; he replied "he should if the women were willing." Adams asked them, and they answered "not unless they went with him." Saying, "as we came here together let us remain and die together."

The Captain having given them some muskets, powder and other articles, departed.

A few days before the arrival of the two ships, a young man named Matthew Quintal, who was subject to fits, fell overboard from the canoe and was drowned, his body not being found. The women told the young men to see if he was not on board of the vesels of war. I shall here inform the reader that John Adams was the proper name of the patriarch, not Alexander Smith, as I have read letters from his brother in England, who was a waterman in London, named Jonathan Adams.

A few years after this the American ship Sultan, Capt. Reynolds, touched at the Island, and exchanged iron bars, &c. for some copper bolts of the Bounty, and sent on shore some bibles. A Tahitian woman named Jenney, left the Island in this ship and returned to Tahiti. I may here remark, that when the Bounty left Tahiti, some of the females were taken against their will, and after their arrival at Pitcairn's Island, they wished to return home. For this purpose the white men constructed a raft to satisfy their desire to return. They appointed one of the females captain, and directed them how to steer, &c. The raft was launched and upset, and their visionary voyage ended. The next ship that arrived was the Hercules, of Calcutta. She brought a large supply of useful articles, book, &c. from Calcutta and England.

Before proceeding further with my narration, I shall introduce myself to the reader, and as the events of a sailor's life may be interesting to many, I shall briefly relate some of the most remarkable events that happened to me during my pilgrimage on the ocean. And first, while a youth on board H.M.'s ship Penelope, bound to Quebec, I was wrecked in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It occurred on Sunday evening, the last of April, about the year 1815, at half past eight in the evening. The ship struck the rocks about half a mile from the shore; some thought she had struck an ice berg, having seen some a short time before, and being once embedded in a field of ice, but we soon found we were on a bed of rocks. When we first struck, we had a fine breeze with topgallant sails set, but the wind soon increased, and she beat heavily upon the rocks. We got out an anchor and tried to heave her off, but in vain. The masts were then cut away, and we commenced getting up provisions, hoping to take them on shore at daylight. The guns were thrown over board, and for a long time she did not make much water, but before daylight the tables, chairs, &c. were washing about in the gun-room. Many of the crew found their way to the ward-room, where they got wine, made a fire and mulled it. At break of day the pinnace was brought under the quarter, and many got into her; among others were two women, one the gunner's wife, and the other the wife of the Captain's cook. Te Capt. also went in the boat. I then jumped in and stowed myself in the bottom of the boat, and she was pulled for the shore; as she got among the breakers she was stove, but all in her reached the shore. The life boat and gig also got on shore. The scene at this time was distressing; the shore was covered with snow, and no habitations of man near; those on board crying for help, and a raging sea before us. After great difficulty and danger, the gig succeeded in getting off to the ship, but in returning on shore was stove. Those on shore collected materials which floated on shore from the wreck, and erected tents out of the sails, &c. Oatmeal, pork and spirits drifted on shore and were secured. Several persons tried to swim on shore, some succeeded, but others when they got among the breakers, sank to rise no more. As the evening again approached it was heart rending to see and hear those on the wreck imploring for help, and we unable to afford them the least, our boat being all stove and a heavy surf rolling in on shore. About midnight the ship gave a tremendous crack and separated into three pieces. Two or three individuals came on sore on the masts, a few on the life buoys, &c. and the rest perished. Having kindled fires, we cooked oatmeal cakes, and began repairing our boats. The wind abating and the sea going down, one of the boats was sent to a piece of the wreck on which were found one or two bodies, and some useful articles which were brought on shore. Many bodies were washed on shore and buried in the snow, and out of a crew of one hundred and twenty, about forty-two were lost. A few days after the wreck a fishing boat manned by Canadians was descried coming towards us. They landed and informed us how far we were from inhabitants, and remained with us until our boats were ready, when they conducted us on our way. As the boats were passing the wreck, a voice was heard, and going to the fore part of the ship we found the captain of the hold very badly frost-bitten. It appeared that he had gone into the hold after the ship had struck, and remained there until she parted. The Canadians conducted us to a place where were one or two houses, which took us a day in pulling and sailing to reach; on our arrival the people (Canadians) treated us humanely, and gave us a good meal of fish and potatoes. After another day's pulling and sailing we arrived at a small village called Douglastown, where we remained some days, and then proceeded across the ice about seven miles, to Gaspe Bay, at which place were two transport ships frozen into the ice; we went on board of them, and when the ice broke, proceeded to Quebec. We there went on board H.M.'s ship Leander, and after a pleasant passage, arrived safe in Portsmouth.

[The story of the wreck of the Penelope is told at (all one url without the space or line break) http://www.geocities.com/ CapeCanaveral/Hall/6670/Penelope/Penelop1.html .]

Part III

Buffett's account of himself continued; wrecked on the coast of Massachusetts, New England—shipped as mate in American ship bound from London to Canton, (1821)—ship sold in Manila—visits Oahu and California—remains upon Pitcairn's Island as a school Teacher—moral and religious condition of the inhabitants—John Adams' death.

Some years after this on a voyage from Jamaica to St. Johns, New Brunswick in the brig Weasel, Capt. McNevin, I was shipwrecked on Scituate beach near Boston, U. S. America.

After being at sea 62 days, our provisions expended, and no light for our binnacle subsisting chiefly on frozen oranges, and with scarcely any sails, and after many times providentially escaping a leeshore, on the night of the 22d February we ran ashore in a snow storm. The master (who had a lame leg,) seldom came on deck, and the mate knowing but little of navigation, we had long been driven about the coast.

At the time the Brig struck there was no one on deck, a young man who had been on deck several hours, came below to get some one to relieve him.

Feeling her strike, we all proceeded to the quarter deck, where we saw the master, who had just made his appearance on deck when we told him the vessel was on shore, he replied "ah! this is what I expected!"

After remaining a short time on deck he said "let us go below and make ourselves comfortable as we can." The Captain, mate and myself went down into the cabin, the other four into the forecastle. The sea was at this time breaking over the vessel, and as the surf beat us up on the beach the Capt. would exclaim "ah! she is going fast through the water yet." The water poured fast through the hole of the stovepipe in the quarter deck, which the Capt. told me to stop with a piece of canvas—he told me also to look for something to put some rum in. Having no light, I felt about and found a teapot! He gave me the key of his trunk and desired me to fill the pot with rum. After we had drank thereof, the night being very cold and chilly, we soon got sleepy, turned in and went to sleep. I knew no more till daylight, when I awoke, and calling to mind our situation got up and looked out of the cabin windows, and saw that we were high and dry on shore.

Providentially for us at the time the Brig struck, the tide had just began to ebb which caused her to lie so easy as the sea receded. Had we struck at low water, or gone ashore on another part of the beach, there would probably have been none of us to tell our tale.

I awoke the Captain and the mate, and shortly after a man came down and hailed us telling us we had better come on shore as soon as possible "for" (says he) "if you stop till the tide rises and the vessel lists (leans) off shore it will be a chance if any of you are saved."

The Capt. wished the man to come on board but he would not. The Capt. and mate said they would stop on board—the rest of us landed and accompanied the man to his house and were kindly treated, and furnished with the best he could provide, which we stood much in need of, having been subsisting for some time on oranges with snow water for our drink.

Having refreshed ourselves we returned to the wreck. When we left her, we came on shore almost dry shod, but on our return we found the tide had risen, and was breaking over the vessel which had listed off shore. The mate had got on shore, and the Captain alone remained on board.

By this time numbers of fishermen and others had arrived, and were calling to the Captain to make himself fast with the lead line (one end of which had washed on shore) and cast himself into the sea.

He was so benumbed with the cold that for a long time he could not, at last he succeeded, and threw himself over board and was hauled on shore, put into an ox car and carried to Marshfield.

The rum soon began to come out of the ship's bottom. As soon as the fishermen had secured one cask they stove in the head and dipped in their fishing boots to keep their feet from being frost bitten—not forgetting to take some inwardly.

Out of nineteen puncheons eight or nine were saved, and the brig became a total wreck.

We were treated very kindly by the inhabitants of Scituate particularly by Capt. N. Turner at whose house most of us resided during our stay there.

[This wreck was reported in The Acadian Recorder, Halifax, Nova Scotia, March 7, 1818:

"Ship news...

St. John, N.B. - Feb. 24 the brig Weasel, M'Nevin 60 days from Jamaica for St. John, N.B. went on shore on Scituate Beach near Boston in the gale of the 3d inst. and has gone to pieces. She had a cargo of 21 puncheons of Rum - 9 only of it saved."]

In 1821 I sailed from London as mate of an American ship bound to Canton. From Canton we went to Manila on entering the Bay of which, we experienced a Typhoon, and lost our mizzen, and fore-topmasts. The ship being sold in Manila I procured a passage on board the ship "Lady Blackwood" bound to Chili. About three weeks out of Manila we came near getting on a lee shore. Having let go our anchors and the ship still driving on shore, we cut away our masts, and thus saved the ship. After the gale abated we rigged jury masts and proceeded to the Island of Rema, one of the spice Islands where we got spars for masts and rigging, and from thence went to Ternate and refitted. From the latter place we sailed for and touched at Oahu (one of the Hawaiian Islands,) thence to California where I remained on shore some months and then joined the whaleship "Cyrus" of London, John Hall, Master. Having procured 1700 barrels of sperm oil, we touched at Oahu, which we left in October 1823 bound to London, in our passage we touched at Pitcairn's Island for refreshments. The inhabitants being in want of some person to teach them to read and write, the Captain asked me if I should like to remain there. I told him I should, and was discharged and went on shore.

At this time there were about 50 inhabitants. Of this number seven came in the "Bounty" namely John Adams and six Tahitian women, one of those being but an infant when she left Tahiti.

At the time of our arrival about 14 ships English and American had visited the island. When our boat landed the natives appeared very glad to see us, we ascended the hill, and were conducted to the village where we saw John Adams. He was a man about 5 feet 6 inches high, stout made and very corpulent, he was dressed in a shirt and trowsers. The native's dresses were made from the bark of a tree called "auti" (the paper Mulberry) the men wearing a cloth called maro, the women a petticoat of the same, and a cloth tied loosely over their shoulders.

At about 11 A.M. they all assembled at the house of McCoy (where Adams always resided during the visit of a ship) where they all stood and sung the 95th Psalm "Sing to the Lord, Jehovah's name" or it may be aid, to have been chanted, it being a tune they said John Adams taught them. (All kneeling) Adams said a form of prayer, and concluded by singing the 51st Psalm, old version. After dinner they met at the house of Edward Young, where some of the ship's crew danced.

Adams not being used of late years to be encumbered with clothes, took off shirt and trowsers, and had a step also.

At about sun setting they all assembled on a grass plat beside the house, and had singing and prayers as in the morning. Adams had taught them to consider Wednesdays and Fridays as fast days, which they generally strictly observed, eating nothing till evening.

But at the time of my arrival, they were not so strict in its observation, as Capt. F. Arthur in the Russel, whaler of Nantucket had almost convinced them, that there was no harm in eating on those days.

Two young men having a desire to see England, our Capt. agreed to take them and they were prepared to go, but owing to the grief of their parents, and coming on bad weather, they did not go.

I soon commenced school keeping, the children attended regularly and some of the young men also to learn to write, &c.

On Wednesday evening most of the people attended to hear me read a sermon or a religious book, and on the Sabbath, Adams performed divine service, morning and afternoon.

As much has been written concerning the religious character of the people, but by those persons who were but a short time among the people, and were not able to judge correctly of their character, I will give a plain statement of facts and should they come before the public they an judge for themselves. For my own part a residence of twenty-one years has convinced me, that human nature is the same throughout the world.

It may be necessary first to state the circumstances which caused me to remain on the Island. I was going home with a good voyage, and good prospects before me when we touched at the Island. But as I have before stated, I had escaped many dangers, and those dangers were the means of causing me to think of a future state, or, if I should express my desires at that time to become religious. In this state of mind I came to Pitcairn's Island. I had read some years before in Delano's voyage, an account of the Island, and a later account by Capt. Arthur; and I now thought it the most eligible place in the world, a place free from temptation, and with no hindrance to prevent a man becoming a christian. I thought that all on shore were such. I found that each family had morning and evening prayer, and read the scriptures, and were a moral people. It is generally thought that Mr. Adams brought them up in this manner from childhood, but it was many years after the Massacre before he taught any to read, and McCoy's son has told me, that they could not believe for some time that Adams understood what he read, but they thought (to use his own words) "he spoke out of his own head."

After Adams taught some of them, they taught others, and when I arrived all but two or three of the first generation could read. I believe sincerely that Mr. Adams tried to guide them aright, but it was attended with much formality. When out fishing in their canoes he had taught them to kneel at the stated time of prayer, and go through their devotions; as the canoes were small and had no outriggers, this was rather difficult to perform. They observed many things in the Levitical law, such as abstaining from unclean birds, &c.

Adams also very properly taught them before going a fishing or any dangerous enterprise, to pray to the Lord for his protection, and what he taught them, I believe he performed himself. He informed me that once he and several of the Tahitian women went for fish on the south side of the Island, and that while on shore the surf became large, and broke their canoe. To ascend the precipice they could not, and their only alternative was to commit themselves by prayer to their Maker, and swim to a rock some distance from the land, and again swim to another part, and at length they reached the shore safely. If any were very ill, Adams always came to pray for them, and the natives now say, that in time of drought, when he prayed for rain, (which he generally did) rain was soon sent them. But they say of a late Teacher, Mr. Hill, that when he prayed for rain, if it before looked cloudy, it would then clear away. Mr Adams had no concern with their secular affairs, that is. no control over them. Sometimes little disputes would arise between them when trafficking for fowl, but if Mr. Adams had a dispute with any he would follow the precept, "Let not the sun go down on thy wrath," and before night would make friends.

When I arrived each family had a box containing books. In looking over them I found "Alliens alarm to the unconverted" and a few of "Burder's Sermons" brought by some whale ship; also a volume of "Doddrige' Sermons on Regeneration" the last appeared to have been much used, I am inclined to think by Young, as some years before his death he was a great reader of his Bible and used to relate the contents to his wife who is still living, and can now recollect many of the historical parts.

One of the mutineers, Isaac Martin, used to devote much of his time in hearing Young read.

But to proceed—after perusing these books, I found something more was necessary, beside reading and prayer to become a christian, and although secluded as it were, from the world, I found that the heart of man was the same, and needed a change, which change I could not perceive had taken place in me, although I led a moral life, and wished to devote myself to the service of God.

After reading the Liturgy of the Church of England on the Sabbath, Adams would ask me to read a sermon or some religious book. I generally read one of the "Village sermons" and to impress it upon their memory read it twice. One of those sermons was from the 6th Chapter of John "Labor not for the meat that perisheth, &c." Another "Him that cometh unto me I will in no wise cast out;" ad I trust it was the means under which some were brought to see the way of salvation by a crucified Redeemer—I believe that some did come unto him, and did eat of that bread which endureth unto everlasting life. Of this number some died at Tahiti. For some time these things appeared dark to Mr. Adams. He being once on a sick bed I asked him if he felt prepared for death; he replied he did not know what further preparations to make. I discoursed to him of salvation by faith in Jesus. He replied, that he thought that people would neglect to do good if taught to believe in Jesus alone for salvation. But I believe he afterwards thought different, as I have seen him when reading of the sufferings of the Redeemer shed tears, and although in his last illness I had not an opportunity of conversing with him on the subject, he being often delirious, yet I trust he is now enjoying a crown of glory.

Part IV

Capt. Beechey's visit—Jane Quintal's departure—John Adams' death—Capt. Bunker's arrival and fate—Mr.. Nobbs becomes school teacher—The Pitcairners remove to Tahiti—Buffett and family visit Gambier's Island—Return to Pitcairn's—Condition of the Island on the return of its inhabitants.

For several years after I settled on the Island, we were visited by but few ships, some years one touched, some years two came. When a vessel arrived it caused much excitement, and was always a holyday, and if the surf allowed, Adams generally went on board. On the arrival of H.B.M.'s Ship Blossom, Adams and most of the men went off in our boat. On approaching the ship, Capt. Beechey hailed and said "where is Alick?" He arose in the boat and placed his hand on his breast: answered, "Here I am."

When he returned on shore he said he was frightened when he discovered it to be a vessel of war and the Captain's hailing in the manner he did. I had been on the East side of the Island and discovered that it was a man of war, and came home and informed the women, they (particularly Adams's daughter,) felt alarmed, fearing that they would take away their father.

In the afternoon the Capt. and officers, came on shore, and set up an observatory and remained nearly three weeks. During their stay Adams went on board and remained several days. He related to Capt. Beechey an account of the mutiny and massacre which is published in Capt. B.'s account of the "Voyage of discovery &c."

About two years after this the Brig Lovely Ann arrived, bound to Tahiti, a women named Jane Quintal being dissatisfied, wished the Capt. to give her a passage thither, which he did and landed her on the Island of Rurutu. Some years after, on a passage from Tahiti to Pitcairn's I touched there and called to see her; she was married to a chief and had several children; she appeared contented and did not wish to return to Pitcairn's.

In February 1829 a schooner from Valparaiso arrived, being out on a Pearling voyage. A Mr. Morenhaut, since Fr. Consul at Tahiti, being supercargo, and wishing to get some divers, most of the men went with him.

Before sailing John Adams went on board, and remained several days the weather being very warm and he being much on deck without a hat, the sun affected his head. After coming on shore he became worse, was confined to his bed 5 or 6 weeks and then died. It is a little singular, that a day or two before his death he told the person attending him that the schooner was on the other side of the island; which was the case, and the young men landed that day, and saw the Patriarch before his death. His wife who had been long blind, and confined by age, did not long survive him; she died about six weeks after him and was buried by his side. There was much lamentation at the time of Adam's death but like the sorrow of the South Sea Islanders, it was soon over. He died March 5th, 1829, and a rough stone marks the spot where lie the remains of one, who forfeited his life to the laws of his country, but who in after life strove sincerely to bring up his children and those of his fellow mutineers to serve God and keep his commandments.

A few months before the death of Adams a sloop of about 20 tons arrived off the Island. Having no boat on board a canoe went off and brought on shore the Captain, Noah Bunker. Being very ill he wished to remain on shore but Adams was not willing. Bunker replied he should die if he returned on board again. There being but one man on board it was agreed that he should remain for the present and the natives having a desire to visit Elizabeth's Island (about 120 miles distant) the Capt. loaned us the vessel to go there. Myself, Evans (an Englishman), who came in the ship with me and was married to A.'s daughter and Mr. Young* went on board. In the night it came to blow and we could not fetch near enough to the shore to anchor. The wind increased to a heavy gale and we were driven off for some time. In ten days we returned and anchored the ship on the west side of the Island, and in a few days she was brought round to Bounty Bay and broken up. The Mate's name was Geo. H. Nobbs, who is the present school master. Bunker's illness increased in a few weeks till he was so bad that the natives watched with him. One evening the watchers got asleep when Capt. Bunker got up, went to the precipice and jumped off. After searching for some time we found him on the rock with one arm and one leg broken. He had taken his shirt from the broken arm and was trying to get it from the other but could not. The distance he jumped was about 100 feet, but, he told us he did not reach the bottom the first time. He said he tried to strike a projecting rock with his head and missing it he jumped to the bottom. When we found him he entreated us to kill him or remove him so that he might jump into the sea, saying it was no harm to put him out of his misery. The natives put him into a canoe and carried him to the house where his broken bones were set and wounds dressed. Soon after a whaler arrived and the Capt. sent on shore some laudanum for him. One day, no one being in the house but a boy he asked him to draw his trunk to him, which he did, taking the laudanum he drank it all, and died in consequence.

* [Again, either Edward, George, or William.]

I shall now relate the account which they gave for coming to the Island.

The sloop fitted out from Callao on a sailing voyage. They proceeded to some islands near "Pisco" and landed a boat's crew to obtain seal skins, while the sloop went to a point of land to see if there were any seal there. When the sloop returned the boat and crew were missing. The Capt. and his mate consulted what course it was best to pursue. The Capt. (Bunker) had bought the sloop, but was in debt for her fitting out. He told (Nobbs the mate) that should they return without any seal skins his creditors would seize the vessel, and asked him (H.) what he thought of going to Pitcairn's Island, Mr. Nobbs replied he had long wished to go there, but could get no opportunity. They then agreed to sail for the Island where they arrived as I have before stated.

Mr. Nobbs being a good scholar, and my family increasing, I gave up school teaching and he succeeded me.

At the time of Capt. Beechey's visits, Mr. Adams represented to him, that the time might come when they might be obliged to emigrate for the want of sufficient water. The government at home were informed of it, and Mr. Nott a missionary from Tahiti then in England suggested that the Society Islands would be a good place for them to remove to. After Mr. Nott's return he went us a letter to hold ourselves in readiness to be removed.

Some years after this H.M.'s Ship Comet and Colonial Transport "Lucy Ann" arrived for the purpose of taking us away.

Capt. Sandilands told us it was optional with us. If we wished to go, we could; if not, we could remain. He brought a present of clothing &c., from the government, and said to us, "If some of you wish to remain I will leave you your portion." Some concluded to remain on the Island, but from the persuasions of those who were going, and more or less nearly related, it also being a time of drought, they finally all concluded to leave. We all went on board the Transport and after a passage of nearly three weeks we arrived at Tahiti.

A child being born on the passage it was named "Lucy Ann." Some of those who were in favor of removal, said they were going to the land of Canaan, to induce the others to join them, but after their arrival they did not find it so.

When we drew near the shore some of the Tahitian women, would not believe it to be Tahiti, and the Pitcairners no sooner saw the Tahitians come along side than they repented having come.

It was also a time of war, Pomare and Taati were opposed to each other, and the hostile armies were at the time of our arrival on the march, but through the means used by Capt. Sandilands, peace was restored.

Capt. Henry of Tahiti who came from Sydney in the Comet gave us to believe before our leaving Pitcairn's, that the Isthmus connection "Tiarapu" with Tahiti would be given us, but it was not. The Queen provided us with a house and a tract of land was allotted us, but it was very small in comparison with Pitcairn's. Before the "Comet" sailed the Pitcairners made application to take them back but he could mot.

Shortly after we arrived at Tahiti T. O. Christian, was taken sick of a fever became delirious, and died. In his sickness I often heard him speak of Pitcairn's, saying how good it was to see the water, &c.

After remaining six weeks at Tahiti myself and family with six others, sailed in a schooner of 30 tons on a pearling to Gambier's Island, the Capt. promising to land us on Pitcairn's.

We could not obtain shells at Gambier's and sailed for Lord Hood's.

A French brig was there lying "off and on" the Capt. of which said he would take us to Pitcairn's. We went on shore, and remained about three weeks. During the time Ed. Christian (who had been sick on board the schooner,) died. We left G.— in the Brig and after three days sail arrived safe at Pitcairn's. During our absence the Brig had touched here for refreshments and the Capt. with his divers (natives of Bolabola) landed, about twenty six men. He had with him a schooner of about 12 tons as a tender, she was anchored on the North side of the Island, and while at her anchorage the wind arose blowing on shore. She was anchored with the Brig's chains and during the night foundered.

At the time we left the Island we had a great quantity of yams planted but having allowed the hogs to run at large they destroyed the greater part of them.

The Capt. and the divers remained on shore about twenty days, and had not the Capt. prevented them, the divers would have pulled down our house.

A few weeks after our return Robert Young died. At this time there was a good many of the Bread Fruit trees. We had a plenty of employment in catching and shooting hogs, &c.

To return to Tahiti, the sickness continued, and eleven out of our number died. The remaining exerted themselves to procure a passage to Pitcairn's. The Queen, Pomare loaned them a small schooner, which they began to repair, but after working for some time she was found to be unseaworthy, and it was given up. The schooner Charles Dagget of Salem, touching at Tahiti Capt. Driver offered to take them back for five hundred dollars. Rev. George Pritchard commenced a subscription with which and the sale of a quantity of copper bolts &c. the sum was raised. The vessel sailed, and they arrived in September after an absence of six months.

Part V

The arrival of Mr. Hill, (sometimes called "Lord Hill") attempts to govern the Pitcairners—pretended to act under the authority of the English Government—styles himself President—officiates as religious teacher—secret consultations—enacts laws—addresses a letter to Mr. Buffett—visit of the Tuscan—visit to Tahiti and Gambier's Island, &c.—Hill removed.

In the early part of 1833 arrived the Bark "Maria" on a pearling voyage, bringing as passenger, a Mr. Joshua Hill. He was about 60 years of age, and very tall.

When some of the natives went on board, he enquired if a man of war had visited us lately; they answered in the negative.

He came on shore and took supper with me. After supper he went to the schoolhouse, and Mr. Nobbs gave him a room for his use while he remained with us.

He informed us that he was sent by the British Government to adjust the internal affairs of the Island; that his stay would be short; as in a few weeks H.M.'s ship Dublin would come expressly for the purpose of taking him away. He said he was intimately acquainted with the Captain whom he called Lord George Townshend. We at first believed his account, and each family agreed to board him daily, in rotation.

In looking over the Navy-List, I found that Lord James, and not George Townshend, commanded the Dublin, and I supposed he could not be so well acquainted as he had said.

From this and other circumstances, we doubted the truth of his mission. He soon began to visit some of the families, and said to some of the women that he was going to be a little king among them.

For a few days he appeared to be friendly to me, and I did some carpentering for him and he in return said he would do some good turn for me. One day when my wife carried him his food, he told her that I did not send it to him. She said I did; he would not allow it was so, she told him what belonged to her, did to me also, he made reply "No I know your husband does not like to feed me." When she returned and informed me, I told her it was best not to have anything more to do with him, as he seemed disposed to make disturbance. He then commenced hostilities. He wished Mr. Nobbs to alter his plan of school keeping and be guided by him, and because he would not he expelled him from his house and took possession of it. George Adams soon became his professed friend. Mr. Hill would get Adams to his house for the purpose of making known to him (H.) occurrences that had taken place on the Island promising him he would not reveal them.

A rupture soon broke out between them and he became an enemy to Adams. He next chose Edward Quintal as his confidant.

About this time an American Ship arrived and sent on shore some books. One was entitled, I believe, "The confutation of the writings of Tom. Paine." On my way home I was met by a woman who asked me if I had a book called Tom Pepper. I told her no, she replied that Mr. Hill was very angry because he said such a book was on shore, Mr. Hill sent for Evans and asked him if he had Tom. Paine, he told him "no, I have never seen such a book." Mr. Hill, became very angry and gave Evans the appellation of the "Big Fool with the woolen Cap" and told people "that all books coming on shore must undergo his inspection and such as he condemned must be burnt by the common hangman." Who that personage was I know not, unless it was himself.

It may appear strange how such a person could gain such an ascendancy over the people. It was through fear partly, and hopes of gain. He said to them, if they did not obey him he would write to government and a ship of war would be sent to chastise them. If on the other hand they would obey him, whatever they wanted he would write for and it would be sent them.

By those means he gained over three or four, one of whom was E. Quintal, who had long been a leading character. Mr. Hill appointed him and two other as elders and himself as President. After a while he chose other three whom he called Councillors. He held forth to them the benefits they would enjoy, and the estimation in which they would be held by officers of men-of-war. He also selected three youth whom he called "Cadets" or young men of high standing.

Several said (to use their own expression) "Mr. Hill is acting very singularly" but they could not tell what to do, and Arthur Quintal remarked, should his son act as Mr. Hill was acting he should certainly correct him. Sabbath evenings were the principal times of meeting; after prayer (Mr. H. now officiated) he would read a lecture on Astronomy or Popery and such subjects, and would boast of having by his sagacity expelled the Catholic Missionaries from Oahu, saying "no man at the Islands but himself could do it." He had resided some months at the Sandwich Islands, and I was informed afterwards by one of the missionaries, that he applied to the governor of Maui for a tract of land, but it was not given him. Most of the people of Pitcairn's were opposed to his proceedings, but no one dared to express his opinion in public; no visits were allowed, and if Mr. H. heard of any it was called an illegal meeting and was strictly forbidden by pains and penalties. He demanded all the fire arms to be given up to him, one of which he kept loaded near him on the Sabbath, when he wished a court of enquiry, he usually commenced on the Sabbath after prayers, sometimes he would hold his secret court, till a late hour endeavouring to persuade the elders to enact laws which they could not in conscience agree to and I have known the elders to go into a secret session and remain nearly all night because they could not come to any conclusion.

I will relate an instance; one Sabbath as he was dismissing the congregation, he remarked that it was his will, that all the men on the morrow should go and cut plank for Edward Quintal. Soon after leaving meeting, Charles Christian, the oldest native then living on the Island, a very inoffensive and quiet man, said to Mathew Quintal, "we may as well go and get our axes for there is not much difference between talking about cutting it on Sunday, and doing it." These words were soon carried to Mr. Hill which occasioned the above mentioned nightly consultation. Mr. Hill proposed that they should be flogged, two of the eldest agreed to it but the others would not, and they were finally sentenced to work on the public road. Some of the natives have since said if he had put his first proposal into execution it would have been attended with serious consequences to himself.

Hill framed a law and obtained a number of signatures to the effect, that none of the children of natives should marry with the children of the Europeans, that our children should not hold lands, but be sent off the Island and their lands given to whom he pleased and we and our families received letters to be ready to leave forthwith. When his food was taken him at supper time they used sign and countersign, which were, "yam" "potato." His doors and windows being secured from within and having all the fire arms in his possession he would seldom come out of the house, pretending he feared he would be killed. When the North West winds blew birds, called "Men of war Hawk" used to come on to the Island, mot of the natives are fond of them for food, and at such times the young men go out to shoot them. on one such occasion as we were at work in the field, and many of the Hawk, flying about I said to Ed. Quintal, "If Mr. Hill would let me have my gun I might shoot some hawk." On the following day I received a letter; the following is an extract from it,

"In the first place you have not transmitted to me the memoranda you promised in regard to your family matters to enable me to give you in writing the advice you wished in relation thereto.

You may fancy yourselves extremely knowing, but with the Blessed Lord's help I am aware of those meetings place, &c. If therefore you are fully determined to bring entire ruin upon yourselves, you will now have only yourselves to blame. If the wild fowl have really become so tame as nearly to pick your eyes out, you have only to shoot them, or if you prefer, put salt on their tails, and thus take them without useless waste of Gunpowder. Secondly, what mean you by thus presuming the other day to insult Mr. and Mrs. Ed: Quintal by insinuating that their politeness towards me &c., was or were (as doubtless is the case) perfectly, disinterested or words to this effect. Now I have only to advise you once for all to mind how you thus presume to address any party or parties whom as you ought to know as well as themselves are furthering the welfare and general interests of the Island. Hence in their truly christian like conduct such as becomes all professing christianity, let us not have any more of such unbecoming liberty even not in a private individual, and much less with the Magistracy of the commonwealth.

Joshua Hill, Teacher, &c.

Pitcairn's Island 11th January 1834 (sgd.)

N. B.—You are hereby strictly and positively forbidden to hold any intercourse or keep any communication whatever with George Nobbs whilst thus upon the Island.

Signed by the Elders and JOSHUA HILL."

Pitcairn's 11th day of January 1834.

At this time Mr. Nobbs lay sick of a dissentery, his wife having a family of young children, and none of her relatives were allowed to visit them. One of the elders (Arthur Quintal) remarked to Mr. Hill, he knew it was not proper to act in that manner for that could not be loving your neighbor. Mr. Hill asked him if he knew who was his neighbor, he replied, "every one" and referred to the Parable of the good Samaritan; Mr. H. became very angry and said no I am your neighbor, your teacher, he is not your neighbor.

Sometime after this the whale ship Tuscan of London Capt. Stavers arrived, with Missionaries bound to Tahiti. The Master, Surgeon, and two of the missionaries came on shore, but did not remain long, they were disgusted with the conduct of Mr. H. and seeing the situation in which we Europeans were placed the Capt. humanely offered a passage to us and our families; we accepted the offer for ourselves, but declined removing our families at this time.

After our remaining some time at Tahiti a Capt. Ebril who brought Mr. Hill to Pitcairn's being bound to Gambier's Island offered to remove our families, we accepted the offer intending to settle on Lord Hood's Island, but after examining it we found it was not fit for cultivation. It is a Lagoon Island about 30 miles in circumference, and not more than one-fourth mile wide. We then went to Gambier's where Nobbs and Evans, myself and family with George Adams my wives mother's sister went to Tahiti, Mr. Hill supposing that we would settle on Lord Hood's Island, and no doubt thinking we should there starve to death, the Sabbath after our departure took for his sermon, one founded on the text "Numbers, 16th Chap. 28 and 29th verses "Hereby ye shall know that the Lord hath sent me to do all these works, for I have not done them of my own mind. If these men die the common death of all men, or if they be visited after the visitation of all men then the Lord hath not sent me."

After remaining some months at Tahiti Adams, with my wife and family embarked on board a Brig to return to Pitcairn's. On their arrival there Mr. Hill endeavored to prevent their landing, but a majority of the people would not harken to his advice.

Arthur Quintal's son came on board the Brig, and related to us what had passed since we left. (By the way I should have said I was the mate of the Brig) among these accounts he related a difficulty between Arthur Quintal and Mr. Hill. One day Quintal called on Hill, and after some conversation Mr. Hill became very angry, (as was always the case if a person differed from him) and asked Q. if he meant to insult him, Q. replied "No" and I do not wish you to insult me. He became highly excited, with rage, and drawing a sword he presented it to the breast of Q. saying "confess your faults, or you are a dead man." Q. replied "I do not know what I have to confess."

Hill then pricked him with the point of the sword still urging him to confess. Quintal was only dressed with a pair of trowsers, no shirt, and he said, it made his blood run cold to feel the prick of the sword. Fixing his eye steadfastly on Hill, he grasped the sword blade, and pushed H. down on to the floor. Hill said to him, "If he would let him get up he would treat on christain principles." Quintal then allowed him to rise, and Hill being up tried to get hold of a sword cane, but Q. prevented him. Some young men hearing the noise entered the house and secured Hill. He requested to be allowed to live in the school house until he could leave the island, which was granted him.

But to go back a little,—after landing my family on the Island I still continued as mate of the Brig, and we sailed for Gambier's where I found Mr. Nobbs and family.

Having written to Commodore now Admiral Mason, then commanding on the South American Station, we received letters from him. He wrote us he was not aware that the British government had delegated any power to Mr. H. and that he (Com. M.) had written to Mr. Hill, in the strongest terms, and hoped that hereafter we should live together in brotherly love and charity as became the disciple of a crucified Redeemer saying also he should send a man of war to Pitcairn's the first opportunity. Mr. Nobbs also received a letter from the people of Pitcairn's to return, and be their teacher. After remaining some time at Gambier's we returned, taking Mr. Nobbs and family and Evans. Mr. Hill endeavored to persuade the people that the letters we had received were forgery, but without effect. Mr. Nobbs soon commenced school keeping. Some time after this, H.M. Ship "Actaeon" Lord Ed. Russel arrived, a meeting was held and Mr. Nobbs was chosen as teacher and Mr. Hill was to leave the Island, which he finally did in H.M. Ship Imogene, Capt. Bruce for Valparaiso, and as we afterwards heard to England. Who Hill was, or what he formerly was we could not learn. He came from New Bedford in a Whale Ship to Payta from thence to the Sandwich Island. From there he went to Tahiti, and lived with Rev. Geo. Pritchard, who became tired of his company, and he at last succeeded in getting to Pitcairn's as before stated. He said of himself that he had been Capt. of one of the East India company's ships and would be very angry if not addressed as "Capt Hill." He said, he was acquainted with most of the nobility of England and had been a great traveller, &c. &c.

Had he conducted himself as a gentleman and a christian, he would have been respected by all on the Island but the manner in which he acted caused great trouble, ad dissention, and it was a great blessing to us when he was removed.

Part VI

Visit of H.B.M. Ship, Fly, Feb., (1838)—choice of Chief Magistrate—influenza 1841; death of E. Quintal and Isabella Christian—description of the island, village, house-building, productions &c.

In the year 1838, H.M.S. Fly, Commander Eliot, arrived. He advised as the colony was increasing, to elect a Chief Magistrate to be chosen annually by voters who had attained the age of 18 years, both male and female; the magistrate to keep a record or journal of his proceedings and to be answerable to the British Government. Ed. Quintal was elected and sworn accordingly.

In 1841, the influenza made its appearance amongst us, and while laboring under that disease, H.M.'s Ship Curacoa, Capt. Jenkin Jones arrived, who by his kindness and that of his Surgeon Dr. Gunn,

afforded us great relief. Soon after the departure of the C., Edward Quintal and Isabella Christian died; the latter was the widow of Fletcher Christian of the "Bounty." I suppose she was over 80 years old. She recollected both Cook's and Wallis's visit to Tahiti.— She had enjoyed good health, was very active and would go up the mountain, and to the west side of the island and bring home a load, but a short time before her last sickness, and she always liked employment.— She had three children by Christian and after his death four by Young. Her only remaining son did not long survive her, he died of an affection of the heart, which he endured with much fortitude and departed with a hope "full of immortality." A daughter named Polly wife of Geo. Adams, has since died of cancer on the breast.

I shall now endeavor to give a description of the island, manners, customs &c.:

The island is about 4 1-2 miles in circumference, the coast iron-bound, the landing place is on the N.E. side of the island and is called by the natives "ships landing," since "Bounty Bay." There is a landing place on the west side. It is a good boat harbor but not a good place to land a boat, and it is rather fatiguing for a stranger to cross the mountain to go to the village.— With the wind from the eastward, a vessel may anchor here in about 12 fathoms, sandy bottom, and safe landing. The name of the place is Water Valley, and is the place where Christian first landed. It is a good watering place for ships after rains; at such time a ship may procure one or two hundred barrels in a day, but in a dry time none can be procured there.

Some years ago the trade winds were generally regular from S.E. to E.N.E., from January to March, but now they are not so regular. The wind in the summer prevailing more from the Northward and in winter from S.W. to S.E. When they change they generally go with the sun, the strongest winds are from the N.W. to West and from S.E.

The village is situated on the North side of the island, and is separated by two vallies, it is situated on rising ground, about 150 or 200 feet above the level of the sea. The houses were formerly of two stories, having a ladder to ascend from the inside through a trap door, but accidents happening to children and being more exposed to strong winds they have been taken down and built on a new and better plan. They are of an oblong form from 35 to 42 feet in length, partitioned off, and having on the back side, bed places similar to the births on ship board. The houses are well made from a species of wood called More or Amai, which is very durable and handsome, and when polished not inferior to mahogany.— The house stand East and West, the front North, facing the sea, and have sliding window shutters. They are thatched with the leaf of the Pandanus. The thatching lasts seven or eight years. When a house is to be thatched each family has to pick their proportion, which is not very pleasant business as it is always picked in a rainy time, as it cannot be rubbed when dry.— The edges of the leaves are armed with sharp prickers, and sometimes broken limbs are the consequence, of falling from the trees when picking, as they are then very slippery, and some of the branches break very easily. The leaf is about five or six feet long, three inches wide, tapering to a point. Both male and female are employed in picking, and after they are picked, they are rubbed and made into rings. The manner of performing this, is by driving a stick into the ground, and laying a billet of wood before it, the person sits down and rubs the leaf from heel to point, which smooths or opens the leaf, it is then placed round the stick and over the billet, the smaller one crossing the larger one and confined in that position by the foot, another is now added and continued till it will contain no more. (A ring contains about 80 leaves.) It is now tied with a piece of bark and put up for use.— The leaves being thick and prickly, the hands are generally sore for some days, being well bored. Sticks are now provided, from 2 to 6 feet long and about 1 1-2 inches in circumference, and the women are employed to fasten the leaves on to the sticks; the leaves just lap over each other widthwise and both are pierced with a pricker made of bone or hard wood, and secured by fern roots about the size of a quill. The men now place them on the rafters and secure them with rope yarns; 4 or 5 hundred rings are sufficient for a house. Every year nine or ten houses are thatched, as each family have out houses &c., and some new ones are built, rebuilt, or enlarged. They generally, or indeed always assist each other to build, that, if 8 or 10 assist me to build my house, I am considered in debt until I have assisted to build theirs.

There are several vallies running through a great part of the island, and are named after the natives, who divided the land among themselves, such as "McCoys Valley," "Isaac's Valley" &c. &c.

At the height of about 1000 feet is considerable table land, on which, and in the vallies, is the best soil. At the height of 1500 feet on the highest mountain is a large morai or burying place in which are stones of two hundred weight, which must have been carried up from the beach. During my residence parts of two skeletons were dug up, they lay side and side and with them were buried some pearl shells. I would remark that at Pitcairn's there are no pearl oysters, therefore the former inhabitants must have come from some other island, I think it likely from Gambier's. The natives of that island say that their forefathers once lived on Pitcairn's, and that they give a good account of the situation of the island, its burying places, &c.

There are plenty of the pearl oyster at Gambier's, but the only conveyance when I was on that Island, was by rafts made of bread-fruit trees. Some years since one of their rafts drifted to sea with a number of natives, and two or three lived and landed on "Oparo" or "Rapa," a distance of 7 or 800 miles.

The produce of Pitcairn's, are Yams, Potatoes, Oranges &c. The yams are very good, and the seed was brought in the Bounty, I believe from Whytotacha. A great deal of labor is required to cultivate them, they are generally planted in October and November, the Harvest time is August.— Each family plants according to their numbers, that is, a family of 8 persons generally plant 8000. They are generally cut up into pieces, a common sized yam making 8 or 10 plants, and spread on the ground and covered with earth, where they remain till they have budded, which is about six weeks, the ground for planting being dug up, the plants are taken from the bed and the weaker shoots or buds taken off, leaving one or two, they are then planted at the distance of two feet each way, and are kept weeded till digging time. Some years since a troublesome weed was introduced, which has spread all over the island, and causes a deal of trouble. The seeds are very fine, and are carried by the wind and animals to all parts of the island, and if a person walks through it he is covered with the seeds and looks like an hedgehog. At one time all the people attempted to destroy it, but it was finally given up. Each family fattens one or two hogs (before digging the yams) and salt them down, so that we may have meat while working and not be obliged to leave it and go for fish. At such time we have more meat that at any other season. Generally in fine weather when we have not much work, we go a fishing, and as we sometimes fish in 150 or 180 fathoms, we lose many hooks and lines by their getting entangled among the rocks, and by the sharks. So that hooks and lines are always in demand. The yams being dug are laid by in a shady place where they will keep eight or nine months, if the buds are kept broken off.

The next work is planting Bannanas, each family planting from one to four hundred. A Plantain or Bannana bears but one bunch or fruit, it is then cut down; suckers growing from the old tree are pulled up and planted at the distance of 5 feet each way, and take about 15 months to come to maturity. A crop is not always sure, as a gale of wind will sometimes sweep down a whole field.— All the yam grounds are at a distance from the village, the ground near, being better for sweet potatoes and it being no great distance to carry them to the landing place, as they are generally sold to ships.

For some years past many ships have touched at the island, chiefly American whalers. Some years 20 ships, and even 30, taking on an average, 20 to 30 barrels each, of provisions and giving us in exchange, cloth, soap, molasses, oil &c. &c. By so much intercourse with ships, we have many wants to be supplied which were before unknown, and are now considered necessary, and which we shall feel the want of as the whaling business decreases. Should whaling fail, we must go back to our old custom of dress. Shirts pantaloons and jackets, must be exchanged again for the "Maro," and ladies gowns for the native petticoats, which will be a great change indeed, for the young ladies and gentlemen of Pitcairn's!

As cocoa-nuts are considered an indispensable article in cooking, and are also used for making oil, each family has a plantation of trees. The manner of using the cocoa-nut in cooking is as follows: The yam or sweet potatoe being skinned is rubbed on a stone grater, the ripe cocoa-nut is scraped and the milk or juice expressed, and mixed with yam or potatoe, which serves as shortening. It is then wrapped up in a bannana leaf and baked into bread called "Pelahi," which is much better than yams or potatoes boiled, especially when we have no meat, as is often the case with us. The ovens are a hole dug in the ground, the wood being placed, is covered with stones and set on fire, when the wood is nearly consumed, and the stones well heated, they are spread abroad covered with Ti leaves. The meat or yams &c., is then laid on the leaves and then covered with another larger of the same leaf, the whole is then covered with earth, and about half hour is cooked.